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El tigre de Bengala. India Llegamos a India después de un largo viaje en avión. Y nos montamos en un minibús para llegar a nuestro destino: Rathambore, un Parque Nacional que está situado en el norte de India, en un estado que se llama Rajasthan. Cruzar la gran ciudad de Delhi ya es toda una aventura. ¡Creo que es la ciudad con más tráfico que he visto jamás! Además, hace un calor...
El conductor nos explica unas cuantas cosas: primero que las normas de tráfico aquí son algo extrañas . Dice que para conducir hace falta tener suerte, llevar un buen claxon (lo tocan a todas horas para abrirse paso) y ser bastante hábil, diría yo. También me habla un poco de los dioses hindúes, ¡que son muchísimos… tienen miles de dioses!
En Rathambore nos alojamos en un antiguo palacio de un maharajá (algo así como un príncipe), que venía aquí para cazar. Ahora las cosas han cambiado, el tigre de Bengala es un animal muy amenazado y en lugares como Rathambore está super protegido. Cada día hace más calor, llegamos casi a los 50ºC, ¡una pasada! Realmente parece que estamos dentro de un horno y hasta cuesta respirar.
La intención de mi padre es fotografiar al tigre, y si es posible cazando una presa. Aquí sobre todo se alimenta de los chitales , que son una especie de ciervo asiático. Son ciervos moteados, por eso nos recuerdan a Bambi. Aunque con tanto calor, los tigres se mueven lo mínimo . Los guías nos cuentan que los chitales y otros animales emiten gritos de alerta para avisar cuando un tigre está cerca. ¡Tenemos que estar muy atentos!
En Ranthambore vemos algunos tigres espectaculares, pero no están muy activos. Eso sí, tenemos la gran suerte de ver un leopardo de muuuuuy cerca : andando delante de nuestro vehículo con una tranquilidad impresionante. Lo podemos ver durante un buen rato. Aunque estés muy cerca de estos animales, siempre desde dentro del vehículo, no hay peligro si no los amenazas ni los agobias . ¡Siempre deben respetarse!
Después de unos cuantos días agotadores (por el calor y también por los madrugones que nos pegamos para hacer las observaciones), nos vamos hacia otro lugar: el Parque Nacional de Bandhavgarh , en el estado de Madhya Pradesh, que también está en el norte de India, pero más al Este. Allí vive Satyendra, un viejo amigo de mi padre que es naturalista y fotógrafo, y un gran experto sobre tigres. Viajamos en tren, un tren muy cómodo, la verdad. Tiene unas literas para pasar la noche.
En Bandhavgarh conocemos a un señor que fue atacado por un tigre , pero él asegura que no fue culpa del tigre, sino de la gente que lo acorraló y le empezó a tirar piedras y a gritarle. Eso es lo que no se tiene que hacer a un animal salvaje. Al tigre le ha pasado como muchos otros animales: convivir con el ser humano no ha sido fácil .
También tenemos oportunidad de ver otras escenas increíbles, como la tigresa Jaya con sus cuatro cachorros cerca de un gaur, que es como un buey salvaje. La primera que nos habla de Jaya es Kay, la compañera de Satyendra, que es una ilustradora inglesa que se instaló en India hace muchos años. Dibuja los tigres que ve con un detalle brutal y, al lado, siempre explica dónde los ha visto y cuándo. Ella pone nombres a los tigres que hay por aquí.
A los cachorros de Jaya todavía nos los ha bautizado y Amaia le propone unos nombres: Tarzán, Mowgli, Baloo y Bagheera . Son tres machos y una hembra. Amaia se ha inspirado en El libro de la selva, de Rudyard Kipling, que en estos momentos mamá está leyendo. Ella nos cuenta que Rudyard Kipling situó la historia en un lugar llamado Seeonee , que no está muy lejos de aquí (a unos 300 km, ¡pero en India es no es nada!), pero, en realidad, se ve que él no había estado nunca allí. Amaia no llama a ninguno de los cachorros Shere Khan, que es el nombre del tigre que sale en El libro de la selva, ¿será porque en el libro es un personaje malo? De hecho, así ve alguna gente todavía al tigre , porque le tiene miedo.
Antes de marchar, también conseguimos nuestro objetivo: ¡ver un tigre cazando! Además, lo vemos cazando una gigantesca tortuga acuática , que es una cosa rarísima y que los guardas y guías nunca habían visto antes. Mejor imposible para acabar nuestro viaje.
*Fotografías de Andoni Canela